Autumn scents and their success

Autumn scents and their success Tap with a whip

Tap with a whip

Every year hundreds of new fragrances on the market: Only a few manage to assert themselves – in the competition have focused mainly on the fashion houses some stockings sleeves

Every year hundreds of new fragrances on the market: Only a few manage to survive. In the competition, especially the fashion houses have some trump cards up its sleeve. That was Anne Feldkamp at the launch of the new men’s fragrance from Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris watching. Illustration: Padma Bhatt A sunny afternoon in the middle of Paris on the edge of the Marais district. In the former opera house Théâtre de la Gaîté Lyrique Jean Paul Gaultier presented his new men in dimly red light perfume. It makes every effort to excavate the portion of wickedness, which is expected of a Gaultier. Only just a corner of the house went on couture show on the stage, now models can swing the stick here. The new fragrance Kocorico do if he comes in February next year on the market, following in the footsteps of the classic men’s fragrance advanced “Le Male”.

The thickest fish

How important the perfume segment for the eternal is design-enfant-terrible, prove the previous news: Hermès, its share had sold 45 percent of the fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier just to the perfume specialists Puig from Barcelona – for 16 million €. A hefty sum, which shows how attractive would be the fragrant side of the fashion house for the Spanish cosmetics company. By 2016, however, remain the rights to the lucrative Gaultier perfumes at Beaute Prestige International (BPI), the daughter company of the world’s fourth-largest cosmetics manufacturer Shiseido.

When it comes to the launch of mass-compatible designer fragrances, the thickest fish are caught in the fashion industry. Always hoping to land with the help of the next seller: If the smell a flop, a lot of money goes down the drain when a perfume is successful, it sometimes financed the entire area of ​​a designer fashion. One of the keys are for the print and television campaigns for Jean-Baptiste Mondino, this time flicked Jon Kortajarena. The Spanish male model with unbuttoned shirt and allowed the breast feathers to give the quasi-self-conscious faucet. Essential is the recognition of such images, because the success of the company’s high pressure. It applies to the proven Trademark torso tie between tin and men – and at the same time to stand up to a hundred more times annually appearing competing products.

“The budgets for mass fragrances increasing but to continue, the likelihood that new fragrances have an international commercial success, but is comparatively low. From 20 scents of a company financed one as an internationally successful product, the other 19, which usually disappear after a few years back, with, “says the perfume market expert Bodo Kubartz. The industry is posted after the crisis years 2008 and 2009 still on the rise, the luxury goods group LVMH in 2010 as a record year, annual sales topped with an increase of 14 percent in the perfume and cosmetics for the first time the 20-billion-euro mark an end to the boom by its own account seems not in sight: 2011 moved its half-year revenues for the first time beyond the ten-billion-euro mark.

Revenue loss

Quite so simple it seems for fashion brands in the luxury segment is not to be: For a Jean Paul Gaultier is the superior art of haute couture tailor relevant mainly as image carriers. Due to the crisis had registered the company in 2009 as many luxury companies in revenue of 19 percent for the summer of 2011 even had a more favorable second-line has been announced. More important that the new fragrance will be a success.

In Gaultier fashion house in the Rue Saint-Martin is from the aftermath of the crisis in early July during the haute couture show to feel but little: On the catwalk leather costumes walk with dainty peplum, to elegant evening gowns mutated trench coats, always Ballerinenröcke and opulent Mr. furry parka. To show the final icing on the cake may not be sexy high heels, the French pop singer Mylène Farmer, therefore, highly self followed by Gaultier.

Is closely related to the fashion circus in the autumn, the lucrative perfume roulette reliably in the next round – and with it the battle for the attention of the buying public who is lured known to be first on visual attractants: series of posters, banners, video trailers and social media campaigns – the fragrance company come up with something by now. But that happened to sound so modern media communication via Facebook and Co at first glance: The application of countless designer fragrances in most cases, as conventional as crisis-proof and looks that way. This season the women’s fragrance segment a real hit: Male (Star) photographer sets charismatic young actress in the limelight.

News at Coty

Marc Jacobs and the beauty giant Coty Prestige, for example, continue to work with Juergen Teller. The fashion house is connected with the quasi-symbiotic and trims the 17-year-old, grown-up child star Dakota Fanning U.S. in the campaign for “Oh, Lola!” on sweet Lolita – known in provocative manner. So we repeated for the current perfume campaign for simplicity the best story of the cute girl model and the flowery giant bottle: Exactly two years ago to market the scent “Lola,” the teen-model Karlie Kloss staged quite similar.

It could also backfire. Then, for example, if the two fragrances and their marketing strategy to have great similarity. This explains Bodo Kubartz that the launch of a new fragrance for companies is always a fine line “between repetition and too little distance on the one hand and an excessive removal of elements of a style known brand on the other” performing.

Fortunately, the fragrance giant Coty Prestige parallel to ‘Oh, Lola! ” yet another ace up its sleeve, the elegance exude is: “Jil Sander Eve” is in the photographs of the actual perfume campaign Azim Haidaryan first time on the distinctive appearance of the Berlin actress Karoline Herfurth, also known as the red-haired plum girl in the film version of Perfume was.

Success of a perfume

L’Oreal – another perfume giant – has, however, with British actress Emma Watson clamped together for “Trésor Midnight Rose” and celebrity photographer Mario Testino, a duo that ensures reliable headlines. The former Hermione from Harry Potter busy for some time with their significant short hair-like fashion, the gossip press, the latest Lancome commercial coo Watson around with the French actor Cyril Descours. A few months before the appearance of the perfume is executed by a fever teaser video on the launch as a classic theatrical release. Using Facebook page can be perceived behind the scenes of the stage very believable.

The short-term attention is the fragrance especially for a young and indecisive buying public certainly. Which fragrance will not make this season what it takes to develop into a top seller have, Jon Dakota, Caroline and Hermione is not completely in the hand.

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